{"id":23134,"date":"2018-03-14T00:05:54","date_gmt":"2018-03-14T07:05:54","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/hakaimagazine.com\/?post_type=custom_news&p=23134"},"modified":"2018-03-14T09:34:00","modified_gmt":"2018-03-14T16:34:00","slug":"diet-of-the-ancient-mariner","status":"publish","type":"custom_news","link":"https:\/\/hakaimagazine.com\/news\/diet-of-the-ancient-mariner\/","title":{"rendered":"Diet of the Ancient Mariner"},"content":{"rendered":"

In 1619, a hurricane sank the English merchant ship Warwick<\/em> in Bermuda\u2019s Castle Harbor. The struggling settlers of Jamestown, Virginia, were desperately awaiting the shipload of fresh supplies, and keenly felt the loss. Almost 400 years later, artifacts from the wreck are helping archaeologist Grace Tsai uncover if unrefrigerated food and drink remained edible and nutritious during long sea voyages.<\/p>\n

Since 2012, Tsai, a doctoral candidate in nautical archaeology at Texas A&M University, has been studying archaeological records of provisions from three different shipwrecks from the 16th and 17th centuries and analyzing shipboard diets based on modern nutritional guidelines.<\/p>\n

Now, Tsai and her colleagues are going one step further: for two months, they stored period-accurate provisions aboard the closest thing to the Warwick<\/em> they could find\u2014the 19th-century tall ship Elissa,<\/em> docked in Galveston, Texas.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe whole premise is to see how things age aboard ships,\u201d Tsai says. Researchers, including her, have typically studied how to prepare food based on historical recipes, \u201cbut nobody has been testing how well they lasted on a transatlantic voyage.\u201d<\/p>\n

The two-month shipboard study took place from August to October 2017, and included its own hurricane scare, when Harvey swept through just a week into the experiment.<\/p>\n

Now, Tsai and her colleagues are back in the lab, analyzing the provisions\u2019 surviving nutritional value and investigating the microbes that grew on them. Chemical analyses could even reveal any remaining\u2014or acquired\u2014flavors.<\/p>\n

Yet before they could get to this point, Tsai and her team had to make all the foodstuffs that would have sustained a 17th-century English sailor, such as salted meats, peas, oatmeal, tough ship biscuits<\/a>, beer, wine, and a barrel of natural spring water. The project also included a variety of heirloom rice, which was more common in the diets of Spanish or Portuguese sailors.<\/p>\n

To better understand the salted meats, Tsai traveled to Bermuda to study animal bones recovered from the Warwick<\/em>\u2019s wreck. Her examination of butcher marks on cattle bones helped her identify the best size to cut beef to enable preservation. The team also imported sea salt from Gu\u00e9rande, France, a region that has been producing salt for more than 1,000 years, which remains a chefs\u2019 favorite.<\/p>\n

Previously, scientists have tried to re-create food and drink from various historical periods. But independent experts agree that this project is an unprecedented experiment in maritime archaeology.<\/p>\n

\u201c[The experiment] would certainly be the closest we could come to replicating the stowage conditions of a sailing ship in that environment,\u201d says Chuck Meide, director of the St. Augustine Lighthouse Archaeological Maritime Program in Florida.<\/p>\n

James Delgado, a maritime archaeologist and senior vice president at SEARCH, an independent archaeological consultancy in Florida, agrees. \u201cWhile we\u2019ve studied food waste and food based on archaeological remains, this is the first time, as far as I know, that someone has done experimental archaeology with shipboard provisions from that period.\u201d<\/p>\n

After their stint in the Elissa<\/em>\u2019s hold, many of the provisions still seem edible. For safety reasons, nobody will actually be tasting the experimental results, but the baked ship biscuits are in the best shape by far, a testament to their legendary hardiness. The salted beef, however, has taken on a pinkish center resembling prosciutto. It has a pungent smell, says Tsai, though it isn\u2019t rotten.<\/p>\n

A big exception is the natural spring water, which has turned cloudy with greenish bits and \u201csmelled pretty disgusting,\u201d Tsai says. Sailors may have preferred quenching their thirst with beer and wine, which remained more palatable. Still, a surprising amount of lingering yeast fermentation and carbonation caused the beer barrel to leak and grow mold.<\/p>\n

Yet the biggest surprise came from the diversity of microbes found in some of the food. Early genomic sequencing analyses, mostly from the salted beef, suggest that many of the bacteria are neither illness-causing pathogens nor beneficial probiotics\u2014most seem to be relatively neutral. The unexpected microbial bounty, however, has forced the researchers to expand their genomic sequencing efforts.<\/p>\n

Even though no one is eating the food and drink stored aboard the Elissa<\/em>, the team is organizing a fundraising event aboard the ship later this month to sample beer based on the historical recipe.<\/p>\n

The event illustrates the project\u2019s benefits beyond the research findings by getting more people interested in history and archaeology, says Meide. \u201cThere is something compelling about literally re-creating the past in order to learn about it.\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In 1619, a hurricane sank the English merchant ship Warwick in Bermuda\u2019s Castle Harbor. The struggling settlers of Jamestown, Virginia, were desperately awaiting the shipload of fresh supplies, and keenly felt the loss. Almost 400 years later, artifacts from the <\/p>\n

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