Taras Grescoe is the author of seven books, among them Bottomfeeder, The Devil’s Picnic, Straphanger, and Shanghai Grand. He is a contributor to the New York Times, The Guardian, National Geographic, and The Smithsonian. His next book, The Lost Supper: Why the Future of Food Lies in the Past, will be published by Greystone in 2023. He lives in Montreal, Quebec, with his wife, Erin, and his two sons, Desmond and Victor. Photo by Katia Taylor